Hey all,
For the past few years I have been running an X1-CIK with an unrestricted X30 in TAG Heavy on Reds. Performance-wise the X1 still goes well (very well), but I am curious as to how a new or near-new chassis might perform and the length of their competitive lifespan, in particular the DPE X3/X4 or OTK 401 models.
I have heard that the OTK chassis "goes off" more quickly than the X1, and that they won't last as long as the X1 has? Is that true?
If so, would the current DPE chassis be more similar to the X1 (and have a long lifespan) or would it be more similar to the euro chassis (and possibly also go off quickly)?
Does an X4-CIK and M4-CIK even exist? I see them referenced by some dealers but the DPE site still shows the X3 and M3 as the current range. (I can check this with DPE directly but thought I'd ask here first anyway)
Basically I am trying to understand if the current OTK and DPE chassis models are quicker than the X1, will last a long time (not drop off after a handful of race rounds), and with parts not too pricey or difficult to obtain. Wishful thinking?
Thanks for any feedback you can give.
Comments5
Anthony,
I can't give you personal experience of X1E to X3+ Or Euro chassis. However here is my experience with DPE chassis in recent years.
From X1/clubby to X2/x30 was a step change in ease of driving and consistency in setup. Just responds better and easier and more controllable under brakes.
After running an X2 for 2.5 yrs doing ~20 to 25 events a year + practice the chassis had some 'flattening' of the chassis rails through wear. I updated to an M4 chassis and on my home track there was no measurable change in lap times with the same tires etc. I am not the quickest around but no slouch and normally in top 5 at Vic Country Series.
My understanding, and happy to be corrected, is that the difference betwix the X3/M3 and X4/M4 is that the 3 has a cast ally bearing block that is adjustable for the bottom steering location whereas then 4 has the tubes brought together in a traditional manner. There was some 'marketing' about different tubing materials and wall thicknesses but no practical way to confirm this.
I hope this helps or at least generates some more informed opinion.
Hi Anthony. I haven't driven the X1 series or the X1E. But i have owned an X2 which was a 30/32 chassis, one of the early X3 which was a 30/30 and i now have an X3 vegas 30/30 (same as the current X4). All raced in TaG125 light with a Rotax. I definitely rate my current X3 vegas right up there against the European stuff. I'm a casual driver but can get within a few tenths of the front runners at state rounds.Â
I would avoid the X3 models with adjustable steering base as it was really hard to get the setup right. I attribute that to the front end being too soft and lacking steer.Â
The Vegas always runs a similar setup everywhere I race it and it is the easiest to drive of the three karts imo.
Maybe ask a mate for a test is you are skeptical? Never hurts to know before laying down the cash
Hey guys, that is great info and just what I am looking for. Barry, interesting in the comparison of your 70+ outing old X2 compared to the M4. That suggests that despite the tube wear and the amount of work, the X2 didn't drop off at all. It also raises the question around the M4 performance - were you happy with it or did you expect more?Royce, I got a return email from DPE yesterday and they told me that the early X3-CIK was a 32/32, and the later X3-CIK was a 30-30. The later one was the Vegas spec and is identical to the X4 - which apart from the early model tube size is exactly what you have confirmed. You both reminded me of the early X3 that had the adjustable bottom steering column bearing, I had forgotten about that. So that's another way of identifying the early X3 non-Vegas karts from the Vegas spec.How have you both found the Vegas spec chassis to "last"? Has it dropped off after a few seasons of racing? Not so much on tube ground wear as I would most likely run kerbriders, but more with regards to tube flex, work hardening etc.To add to the confusion I also see that the marketing material shows a single brake line running from the master cylinder to the caliper (at least the early X3 marketing material does anyway). Was that brake setup discontinued? Good point on the test drive - I may need to get some new mates as they have other brands or older karts!Really helpful info, thank you. Keen to hear more thoughts!
Anthony
Definitely get some mates together and back to back the different brands. You will feel more comfortable in some than others, I have heard many people buy a new kart and then complain because they end up with bruised ribs etc just because it is different to what they are used to.
It come down to what you like and what suits you. I have an M3 31C and an X1 30/32 an both are different to drive and require slightly different styles to most out of them. The M3 we struggle with rear tyre wear using DFMs and the X1 suffers more from front tyre wear.
In saying that the X1 30/32 in TAG (using X30) I found to be a rgeat kart, I managed to beat home 5 x3/x4 chassis in Townsville earlier in the year. They had an edge through the high speed corners as the bigger chassis seemed to hold on better where I was controlling the slide however The tighter sections The smaller (and older) kart seemed to be better.
I back to back tested 4 karts at Coffs harbour last year doing some testing for the old boys at the over 40s and the diffence was amazing in the karts. I had a restricted X30 on a Tony kart (CIK chassis), restricted x30 on a CRG (black diamond) an unrestricted x30 on an X1 30/32 and a yamaha clubby on an X3 31C.
The CRG I didn't like, wasn't comfortable at all, constantly scraped on the ground under brakes
Tony Kart was nice to drive just took a few laps to get used to compare to the Arrows I'm used to.
X1 was still my favorite (it is also my kart and what I am used to driving)
X3 with the clubby made it very difficult to compare but from a kart/chassis side of things could feel the chassis working a lot harder. The same kart with a KA is now a different beast altogether.
Ultimately see what you can try before you buy and see what you feel is going to work for you.Â
Hi Nic, that's also quite interesting. By the sounds of things it would not be wise to always expect a big improvement with the newer, fresher chassis and in some cases I could be worse off. My home track is fairly twisty (Butterfly Farm). And driving style sounds like it would be a factor as well.
On the other hand even if a Vegas was no quicker than the X1, I would expect that setup changes would be easier to make and the kart would respond more noticeably to those changes.
As a side note I have heard that the DPE website is undergoing a refresh (the Arrow and Monaco pages still show the pre-Vegas CIK models), reading between the lines a bit I wonder if a new model is just around the corner?