I am still relatively new to karting and I am still sorting through a few setup issues causing the inside of my front MG Reds to wear severely. I plan on going testing this weekend and I have been given a few ideas to try and resolve the issue, however is it ok to rotate the front tires from side to side so the inside of the tire will be on the outside? My previous set resembled a piece of swiss cheese on the inside of the tire. I seem to chew up the fronts a lot quicker than the rears.
I am trying to avoid wrecking another set of new tires until I get my setup fixed.
I am trying to avoid wrecking another set of new tires until I get my setup fixed.
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the MG Reds are directional, and could de-laminate if you put them on the wrong way.
You may need to fiddle with the Camber and other wheel alignment settings. I dnt know much about the steering geometry and what would work....soz man, thats all i can help you with.
good luck
I understand they are directional. I am proposing to swap them on the rims so they stay in the right direction. I am going ot try adjusting camber and front track to try and elimante the understeer.
Callan Sayers said:the MG Reds are directional, and could de-laminate if you put them on the wrong way.
You may need to fiddle with the Camber and other wheel alignment settings. I dnt know much about the steering geometry and what would work....soz man, thats all i can help you with.
good luck
Yes we swap our reds after every meeting so the inside of the the tyre becomes the outside, and swaps sides of the kart so the direction stays the same. I find MG reds and yellows bothe wear on the inside of the tyre front and back.
if its chewing the inside of the tyre as sevearly as u say it is u must have WAY too much negative camber... put about 2mm of positive a side and the kart will handle better..... i find after rotating tyres, you do not have as much front end grip, theoretically because of heat cycles etc where the tyre works the most on its original 'bed-in' run...
I have setup the kart for 2mm pos camber on each side. I am goign to try maybe 3mm pos this weekend. This issue only happens to me at Warwick. The track is fast and flowing. It could be my driving style, but I am also going to try and increase the front track a bit to eliminate some understeer.
Luke Lane said:if its chewing the inside of the tyre as sevearly as u say it is u must have WAY too much negative camber... put about 2mm of positive a side and the kart will handle better..... i find after rotating tyres, you do not have as much front end grip, theoretically because of heat cycles etc where the tyre works the most on its original 'bed-in' run...
Thanks for the info. I will swap them over to just get another day of testing out of them and figure out the problem causing it.
Jason Wroth said:Yes we swap our reds after every meeting so the inside of the the tyre becomes the outside, and swaps sides of the kart so the direction stays the same. I find MG reds and yellows bothe wear on the inside of the tyre front and back.
hav u tried a bit of castor?? it will help it turn in easier... also u could have too much grip in the back which would cause understeer... what yre pressures u got? and what is the rear wheel track?
Luke Turner said:I have setup the kart for 2mm pos camber on each side. I am goign to try maybe 3mm pos this weekend. This issue only happens to me at Warwick. The track is fast and flowing. It could be my driving style, but I am also going to try and increase the front track a bit to eliminate some understeer.Luke Lane said:if its chewing the inside of the tyre as sevearly as u say it is u must have WAY too much negative camber... put about 2mm of positive a side and the kart will handle better..... i find after rotating tyres, you do not have as much front end grip, theoretically because of heat cycles etc where the tyre works the most on its original 'bed-in' run...
starting 12PSI cold and all they came in 15PSI HOT, except for the RR which is hardworking side. It came in at 16. So I dropped a pound out of that tire and it was coming in hot at 15 after that.
I have not tried any caster changes. I might leave that until for the moment as I understand it changes a lot of things.
I was running a rear track of 1392.5 with med axle and hubs. I think the rear isnt producing too much grip.
I am hoping for a driver training day soon, so hopefully that will iron a lot of the bugs out. Just trying to get my rubber lasting longer to cut more laps for the time being.
I appreciate your ideas so far.
Luke Lane said:hav u tried a bit of castor?? it will help it turn in easier... also u could have too much grip in the back which would cause understeer... what yre pressures u got? and what is the rear wheel track?
Luke Turner said:I have setup the kart for 2mm pos camber on each side. I am goign to try maybe 3mm pos this weekend. This issue only happens to me at Warwick. The track is fast and flowing. It could be my driving style, but I am also going to try and increase the front track a bit to eliminate some understeer.Luke Lane said:if its chewing the inside of the tyre as sevearly as u say it is u must have WAY too much negative camber... put about 2mm of positive a side and the kart will handle better..... i find after rotating tyres, you do not have as much front end grip, theoretically because of heat cycles etc where the tyre works the most on its original 'bed-in' run...
Add me to the list of people that say when you rotate MG reds, you'll struggle. They bed in one way, and if you try to turn them around (put inside to outside or vice versa) they don't like it. Don't worry about delaminating a tyre, I've never seen it happen. The directional arrow is there just to scare new people. =D
What you need to do is cure the understeer. I'd go with more positive camber, and strangely enough a NARROWER front end (because I bet it's exit push that's killing the tyres, not entry push, and a wider front will make that WORSE not better), to go with a wider rear end, and loosen off the front crash bar and maybe the floortray.
Also, don't whack a heap of steering lock into the kart on entry, just tuuuuuuurn the steering wheel. Smooth is fast, and also makes setting karts up much easier!
Thanks for the info Col. It was actually much worse when I was running 10mm of inside spacers on each side. I am now at 20mm and the tire lasted longer than before. I also had jacking issues when running the 10mm of inside spacers.
I might try going to 3mm pos camber on each side instead of 2.
To be honest, I think you could be right. I think the driver is more at fault. Getting there slowly!
Col Fink said:Add me to the list of people that say when you rotate MG reds, you'll struggle. They bed in one way, and if you try to turn them around (put inside to outside or vice versa) they don't like it. Don't worry about delaminating a tyre, I've never seen it happen. The directional arrow is there just to scare new people. =D
What you need to do is cure the understeer. I'd go with more positive camber, and strangely enough a NARROWER front end (because I bet it's exit push that's killing the tyres, not entry push, and a wider front will make that WORSE not better), to go with a wider rear end, and loosen off the front crash bar and maybe the floortray.
Also, don't whack a heap of steering lock into the kart on entry, just tuuuuuuurn the steering wheel. Smooth is fast, and also makes setting karts up much easier!
What weight catergory are you racing in?If it's club heavy, 2-3mm of positive camber should do it. I aligned my 28/30 when I ran light on the ground with the snipers on the inside,15 psi in the tyres and good flat ground, no lead and the camber changed 2.5mmwithout me in the kart! (sorry Col, you've got me using exclamation marks now!!)
Col Fink said:Add me to the list of people that say when you rotate MG reds, you'll struggle. They bed in one way, and if you try to turn them around (put inside to outside or vice versa) they don't like it. Don't worry about delaminating a tyre, I've never seen it happen. The directional arrow is there just to scare new people. =D
What you need to do is cure the understeer. I'd go with more positive camber, and strangely enough a NARROWER front end (because I bet it's exit push that's killing the tyres, not entry push, and a wider front will make that WORSE not better), to go with a wider rear end, and loosen off the front crash bar and maybe the floortray.
Also, don't whack a heap of steering lock into the kart on entry, just tuuuuuuurn the steering wheel. Smooth is fast, and also makes setting karts up much easier!
Rotax Resticted Heavy. Chassis is a BMAX
Kevin Taylor said:What weight catergory are you racing in?If it's club heavy, 2-3mm of positive camber should do it. I aligned my 28/30 when I ran light on the ground with the snipers on the inside,15 psi in the tyres and good flat ground, no lead and the camber changed 2.5mmwithout me in the kart! (sorry Col, you've got me using exclamation marks now!!)
Col Fink said:Add me to the list of people that say when you rotate MG reds, you'll struggle. They bed in one way, and if you try to turn them around (put inside to outside or vice versa) they don't like it. Don't worry about delaminating a tyre, I've never seen it happen. The directional arrow is there just to scare new people. =D What you need to do is cure the understeer. I'd go with more positive camber, and strangely enough a NARROWER front end (because I bet it's exit push that's killing the tyres, not entry push, and a wider front will make that WORSE not better), to go with a wider rear end, and loosen off the front crash bar and maybe the floortray.
Also, don't whack a heap of steering lock into the kart on entry, just tuuuuuuurn the steering wheel. Smooth is fast, and also makes setting karts up much easier!