[quote author=feno link=topic=1953.msg20679#msg20679 date=1356938980] So i've got the caster camber, track, all spot on, how do you guys measure toe in, out?
do you rely on difference between front width between front tyre centres to rear of front tyre centres? if so what are the measurements?
cheers all
[/quote]
Toe, You can grab an old aerial, extend it in between the rims at the rear first, then the front. There should be a 0 - 0.5mm gap between the aerial and the rim at the front once the lock nuts are tight. If the brakes are in the way do it on the discs instead.
Camber, just put bare front rims on and throw a STRAIGHT ruler or straight edge across underneath in the centre of the rims wider than the outsides and adjust so that the insides of the rims have about a 3mm gap.
Caster, measure back from the centre of the top upright bolt to the axle each side.
Adjust all by feel and temp across the front tyres after driving the kart. Every kart is different as are drivers, tyre types etc. Use new/ ish tyres when setting up NOT OLD CRAP ONES.
also you (or anyone else) wouldn't have any left hand thread locknuts for anderson camber rods would you? I have tried many places in sydney and no one stocks left hand thread 3/8 a/f nuts. thanks
The large ones are 1/2 UNF and are RH thread (std thread) The small ones on the rod ends are 10 x 1.5mm LH thread. These are best left the full thickness to enable them to be done up tight enough without the spanner rounding the hex off
All nut and bolt suppliers should stock both, the only thing is that the 1/2 inch UNF nut will probably come in a full nut thickness not half thickness as intended on an Anderson. I just cut them down to the correct thickness on a milling machine but if you use a hacksaw, ensure you put the cut side away from the caster/camber adjuster.
[quote]The large ones are 1/2 UNF and are RH thread (std thread) The small ones on the rod ends are 10 x 1.5mm LH thread. These are best left the full thickness to enable them to be done up tight enough without the spanner rounding the hex off
All nut and bolt suppliers should stock both, the only thing is that the 1/2 inch UNF nut will probably come in a full nut thickness not half thickness as intended on an Anderson. I just cut them down to the correct thickness on a milling machine but if you use a hacksaw, ensure you put the cut side away from the caster/camber adjuster.[/quote]
That's what I thought, but have been to no less than '6' fastner suppliers in Sydney yesterday with no luck. It's definately left hand UNF and is exactly 10mm in diameter, when I put it up against coventry fasteners thread guide it states it was 3/8?
I guess I'll need to go back to anderson who supplied the rose joints and get the nuts off them. thanks for your help mate, sam and yourself have always been spot on with your info.
[quote author=feno link=topic=1953.msg20711#msg20711 date=1357163121] I guess I'll need to go back to anderson who supplied the rose joints and get the nuts off them. thanks for your help mate, sam and yourself have always been spot on with your info. [/quote] Feno, shut up and listen to me :-).........and Scott.
They are metric thread, 10mm standard....not fine thread or anything like that.....10mmx1.5 thread So all you need is 10mm x1.5 nut LH thread, don't mention anything about imperial or UNF when talking.
Only the big ones at the very bottom that hold your uprights up are 1/2UNF and they only use RH rod ends down there on both sides.
haha, I just checked again at coventry and they told me it was (the unmentinonable). you're right its 10mm x 1.5 pitch, so the big question now, who in aussie stocks these L/H thread nuts?
I got a bag load of 8mm LH nuts, no 10mm. Stocky's kart does not use 10mm LH hence I don't have any but my supplier is in Dunlop st North Parramatta - Lee Bros. Look them up, they should have them for sure.
yep thanks mate, they are closed over xmas. I'll give them a go next week. I thought it was pretty crazy that coventry, wds,united fasteners, total fastners, universal bearings, etc all do no LH threads! :o
I got 20 or so M10 x 1.5 pitch LH from Coventry fastners in Geelong last time I bought them. It was a few years ago now and I have used them all up on all the karts I've either built up or re bearing and bolted.
Hi Sam, who do you get those SKF rod ends from in AU?
[quote author=SAFE Evolutions link=topic=1953.msg20731#msg20731 date=1357235241] Hi Sam, who do you get those SKF rod ends from in AU? [/quote] If your after genuine SKF metric 8mm and 10mm LH/RH rod ends, Stocky has the best deal in Australia you can get. These are the ones for the front end and they last forever in everything except engine adjuster. So good that I put them all over my Stock Honda cause the genuine euro rod ends end up with steering play but never these SKF that Stocky has.
For engine adjuster, I go down to 3/8 and use Silverline, also 1/2" Silverline under the uprights, then they last forever as well. May need to spend the money up front but pays itself off after 12 months. ;)
PS.....this topic is called "Got Toe". Ever time I see it I think "Got CAMEL Toe" and hoping to see a nice pic. :D
[quote author=Sam Zavaglia link=topic=1953.msg20732#msg20732 date=1357249059] PS.....this topic is called "Got Toe". Ever time I see it I think "Got CAMEL Toe" and hoping to see a nice pic. :D [/quote]
As compared to your "Moose Knuckle" exhibition at Phillip Island Sammy?
For some reason she found Vince's rubber glove look to hard to walk away from, he had her doing fiberglass repairs and kart cleaning for most of the day. If the SKE wasn't in the background I would say that Carlo got inspiration for the nose cone of the SKE that day :D
[quote author=Rolf Greve link=topic=1953.msg20758#msg20758 date=1357377594] I was going to re post the earlier photo of toe out[/quote] Ohhh mate, could you imagine all the toe out photos I could find on the internet. :D
Comments23
Re: Got Toe?
So i've got the caster camber, track, all spot on, how do you guys measure toe in, out?
do you rely on difference between front width between front tyre centres to rear of front tyre centres?
if so what are the measurements?
cheers all
[/quote]
Toe,
You can grab an old aerial, extend it in between the rims at the rear first, then the front. There should be a 0 - 0.5mm gap between the aerial and the rim at the front once the lock nuts are tight. If the brakes are in the way do it on the discs instead.
Camber,
just put bare front rims on and throw a STRAIGHT ruler or straight edge across underneath in the centre of the rims wider than the outsides and adjust so that the insides of the rims have about a 3mm gap.
Caster,
measure back from the centre of the top upright bolt to the axle each side.
Adjust all by feel and temp across the front tyres after driving the kart. Every kart is different as are drivers, tyre types etc. Use new/ ish tyres when setting up NOT OLD CRAP ONES.
Re: Got Toe?
also you (or anyone else) wouldn't have any left hand thread locknuts for anderson camber rods would you?
I have tried many places in sydney and no one stocks left hand thread 3/8 a/f nuts.
thanks
james
Re: Got Toe?
The small ones on the rod ends are 10 x 1.5mm LH thread. These are best left the full thickness to enable them to be done up tight enough without the spanner rounding the hex off
All nut and bolt suppliers should stock both, the only thing is that the 1/2 inch UNF nut will probably come in a full nut thickness not half thickness as intended on an Anderson. I just cut them down to the correct thickness on a milling machine but if you use a hacksaw, ensure you put the cut side away from the caster/camber adjuster.
Re: Got Toe?
The small ones on the rod ends are 10 x 1.5mm LH thread. These are best left the full thickness to enable them to be done up tight enough without the spanner rounding the hex off
All nut and bolt suppliers should stock both, the only thing is that the 1/2 inch UNF nut will probably come in a full nut thickness not half thickness as intended on an Anderson. I just cut them down to the correct thickness on a milling machine but if you use a hacksaw, ensure you put the cut side away from the caster/camber adjuster.[/quote]
That's what I thought, but have been to no less than '6' fastner suppliers in Sydney yesterday with no luck.
It's definately left hand UNF and is exactly 10mm in diameter, when I put it up against coventry fasteners thread guide it states it was 3/8?
I guess I'll need to go back to anderson who supplied the rose joints and get the nuts off them.
thanks for your help mate, sam and yourself have always been spot on with your info.
[img]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1306/20130103083515.jpg[/img]
cheers
James
Re: Got Toe?
I guess I'll need to go back to anderson who supplied the rose joints and get the nuts off them.
thanks for your help mate, sam and yourself have always been spot on with your info.
[/quote]
Feno, shut up and listen to me :-).........and Scott.
They are metric thread, 10mm standard....not fine thread or anything like that.....10mmx1.5 thread
So all you need is 10mm x1.5 nut LH thread, don't mention anything about imperial or UNF when talking.
Only the big ones at the very bottom that hold your uprights up are 1/2UNF and they only use RH rod ends down there on both sides.
Re: Got Toe?
you're right its 10mm x 1.5 pitch, so the big question now, who in aussie stocks these L/H thread nuts?
Re: Got Toe?
Stocky's kart does not use 10mm LH hence I don't have any but my supplier is in Dunlop st North Parramatta - Lee Bros. Look them up, they should have them for sure.
Re: Got Toe?
I'll give them a go next week.
I thought it was pretty crazy that
coventry, wds,united fasteners, total fastners, universal bearings, etc all do no LH threads! :o
info appreciated
james
Re: Got Toe?
Hi Sam, who do you get those SKF rod ends from in AU?
Re: Got Toe?
Hi Sam, who do you get those SKF rod ends from in AU?
[/quote]
If your after genuine SKF metric 8mm and 10mm LH/RH rod ends, Stocky has the best deal in Australia you can get. These are the ones for the front end and they last forever in everything except engine adjuster. So good that I put them all over my Stock Honda cause the genuine euro rod ends end up with steering play but never these SKF that Stocky has.
For engine adjuster, I go down to 3/8 and use Silverline, also 1/2" Silverline under the uprights, then they last forever as well. May need to spend the money up front but pays itself off after 12 months. ;)
PS.....this topic is called "Got Toe". Ever time I see it I think "Got CAMEL Toe" and hoping to see a nice pic. :D
[img]http://www.totalprosports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/nice.jpg[/img]
[img]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OUyo9AA8Y78/T_q707S7DsI/AAAAAAAAHNY/QsfotzuoLHk/s640/ct.jpg[/img]
Re: Got Toe?
PS.....this topic is called "Got Toe". Ever time I see it I think "Got CAMEL Toe" and hoping to see a nice pic. :D
[/quote]
As compared to your "Moose Knuckle" exhibition at Phillip Island Sammy?
Re: Got Toe?
Re: Got Toe?
[attachment deleted by admin]
Re: Got Toe?
That's too big to be a camel toe, more like a bonnet from a VW Beetle.
Re: Got Toe?
Re: Got Toe?
For some reason she found Vince's rubber glove look to hard to walk away from, he had her doing fiberglass repairs and kart cleaning for most of the day. If the SKE wasn't in the background I would say that Carlo got inspiration for the nose cone of the SKE that day :D
Re: Got Toe?
Did you get a photo of the moose knuncke?
[/quote]
Just need to ask Stocky, Bassy or Steve. I was too stunned to move.
Re: Got Toe?
Re: Got Toe?
Re: Got Toe?
Now THAT'S a moose knuckle ;D
[/quote]
But Sammy wasn't quite that large
Re: Got Toe?
Re: Got Toe?
but this got much better.
;D
Re: Got Toe?
I was going to re post the earlier photo of toe out[/quote]
Ohhh mate, could you imagine all the toe out photos I could find on the internet. :D