Hey guys, starting to test engines with clutchs, just want anyone's veiw on if the clutch changes the peformance of the engine at any point and what is a good clutch to run for the class?? cheers
yeah i hate the idea of runnign a clutch, i have the same view its just someone else that can go wrong on race day. every year they bring in a new rule for clubman to make the class "better"but just ends up costing more..
I run a red clutch and havent had any problems. I pull it off every meeting to clean it and inspect. one thing that i have noticed lately though is that because the chain is so close to the drum face if it gets a bump or high spot in it it can grab the chain and throw it. You can file them off though.
bloody hell this is starting to sound like more hassle then its worth, why stuff with a perfectly good class??
Its not too much hassle. I mean you dont have to pull the clutch off after every meeting you could go 2 or 3 without problems id say but i just personally prefer preventative maintainence rather than picking up the pieces if it all goes wrong.
Josh Walker said:Its not too much hassle. I mean you dont have to pull the clutch off after every meeting you could go 2 or 3 without problems id say but i just personally prefer preventative maintainence rather than picking up the pieces if it all goes wrong.
I have a red clutch atm. i put the clubman clutch, which one? thread on here after my red clutch hub cracked. i told st george karts about the problem nd they gave me a new clutch ( an updated one with higher strength and tolerances). i pull it apart every meeting, clean and re-grease the bearings. no problem so far except the early model design fault.
if you get a red clutch make sure it is a series 2.
has anyone noticed any difference in racing? like is there a split pause for the clutch to engaged when pulling out of a corner or anything like that?
rwood on May 14, 2009 at 17:30
Daniel Roser said:Josh Walker said:Its not too much hassle. I mean you dont have to pull the clutch off after every meeting you could go 2 or 3 without problems id say but i just personally prefer preventative maintainence rather than picking up the pieces if it all goes wrong.
I have a red clutch atm. i put the clubman clutch, which one? thread on here after my red clutch hub cracked. i told st george karts about the problem nd they gave me a new clutch ( an updated one with higher strength and tolerances). i pull it apart every meeting, clean and re-grease the bearings. no problem so far except the early model design fault.if you get a red clutch make sure it is a series 2.
How do you tell if it is a series 1 or 2?
i think it's a stupid idea...leave the TAG for TAG classes...I'm getting a Rotax soon so i can run TAG... but the AKA should leave clubman alone and leave it the way it is...
you teel if it a series 2 by looking at the centre part where it sits on the crank. it used to be one full solid piece now there is a kind of break half way so if the part closest to the crank splits on keeps it from splitting the rest of the cutch which is what causes damaged cranks from tearing the key out of the keyway.
Hi,
About 8 months ago i tried using the Italsport Red clutch on my ARC Watercooled. The problem with them is, That the ARCs dont have a key cut in the crank so the Italsport clutch tends to slip. This happened to me and it chewed the side out of my crank within about 4 sesions. The Strike one is ok but it feels really slow.
BTW i dont think there gonna make us run clutches anymore due to the finacial crisis.
Mick Gollan said:Brad had the same problem with an ARC I built a JNR. The clutch had slipped because there is no keyway provision on there cranks.(crank is now stuffed) I was going to cut one to fix the problem, but have been informed that it would not be legal. Just another non performing improvement I have to leave alone.
There doesnt seem to be much problem running fixed drive sprockets without keyways and they get a hammering during starting - if the taper is poor fit (most sprockets now are precision ground) it has been known that lapping the sprocket or in this case hub using very fine lapping paste often fixes the problem as a well fitting taper should provide a lot of drive without slipping even without a keyway
If the taper isnt a good fit you will have all sorts of problems
Ernie
ive found no difference in performance or corner drive. doesnt slip because it never goes below 3000rpm. I prefer it to DD because i can find literally no difference in performance, it saves Dads back from pushing and i keep going if i get smacked off the track.
Anyone that says clutches slip and dont perform like a DD must be putting chain lube on the shoes or something.
Comments12
yeah i hate the idea of runnign a clutch, i have the same view its just someone else that can go wrong on race day. every year they bring in a new rule for clubman to make the class "better"but just ends up costing more..
I run a red clutch and havent had any problems. I pull it off every meeting to clean it and inspect. one thing that i have noticed lately though is that because the chain is so close to the drum face if it gets a bump or high spot in it it can grab the chain and throw it. You can file them off though.
bloody hell this is starting to sound like more hassle then its worth, why stuff with a perfectly good class??
Its not too much hassle. I mean you dont have to pull the clutch off after every meeting you could go 2 or 3 without problems id say but i just personally prefer preventative maintainence rather than picking up the pieces if it all goes wrong.
Josh Walker said:Its not too much hassle. I mean you dont have to pull the clutch off after every meeting you could go 2 or 3 without problems id say but i just personally prefer preventative maintainence rather than picking up the pieces if it all goes wrong.
I have a red clutch atm. i put the clubman clutch, which one? thread on here after my red clutch hub cracked. i told st george karts about the problem nd they gave me a new clutch ( an updated one with higher strength and tolerances). i pull it apart every meeting, clean and re-grease the bearings. no problem so far except the early model design fault.
if you get a red clutch make sure it is a series 2.
has anyone noticed any difference in racing? like is there a split pause for the clutch to engaged when pulling out of a corner or anything like that?
rwood on May 14, 2009 at 17:30
Daniel Roser said:Josh Walker said:Its not too much hassle. I mean you dont have to pull the clutch off after every meeting you could go 2 or 3 without problems id say but i just personally prefer preventative maintainence rather than picking up the pieces if it all goes wrong.
I have a red clutch atm. i put the clubman clutch, which one? thread on here after my red clutch hub cracked. i told st george karts about the problem nd they gave me a new clutch ( an updated one with higher strength and tolerances). i pull it apart every meeting, clean and re-grease the bearings. no problem so far except the early model design fault.if you get a red clutch make sure it is a series 2.
How do you tell if it is a series 1 or 2?
i think it's a stupid idea...leave the TAG for TAG classes...I'm getting a Rotax soon so i can run TAG... but the AKA should leave clubman alone and leave it the way it is...
you teel if it a series 2 by looking at the centre part where it sits on the crank. it used to be one full solid piece now there is a kind of break half way so if the part closest to the crank splits on keeps it from splitting the rest of the cutch which is what causes damaged cranks from tearing the key out of the keyway.
Hi,
About 8 months ago i tried using the Italsport Red clutch on my ARC Watercooled. The problem with them is, That the ARCs dont have a key cut in the crank so the Italsport clutch tends to slip. This happened to me and it chewed the side out of my crank within about 4 sesions. The Strike one is ok but it feels really slow.
BTW i dont think there gonna make us run clutches anymore due to the finacial crisis.
Mick Gollan said:Brad had the same problem with an ARC I built a JNR. The clutch had slipped because there is no keyway provision on there cranks.(crank is now stuffed) I was going to cut one to fix the problem, but have been informed that it would not be legal. Just another non performing improvement I have to leave alone.
There doesnt seem to be much problem running fixed drive sprockets without keyways and they get a hammering during starting - if the taper is poor fit (most sprockets now are precision ground) it has been known that lapping the sprocket or in this case hub using very fine lapping paste often fixes the problem as a well fitting taper should provide a lot of drive without slipping even without a keyway
If the taper isnt a good fit you will have all sorts of problems
Ernie
ive found no difference in performance or corner drive. doesnt slip because it never goes below 3000rpm. I prefer it to DD because i can find literally no difference in performance, it saves Dads back from pushing and i keep going if i get smacked off the track.
Anyone that says clutches slip and dont perform like a DD must be putting chain lube on the shoes or something.